1. Generac 7000exl Engine Owners Manual

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You gotta tell us a whole lot more than that. Is the breaker tripping with a load attached or without? What does the voltage measure on the generator side of the breaker? What is the history of the generator? Many times such problems are the inadvertent result of mistakes made during previous repairs so I need to know what was done to the generator last. In some detail.

What you took off/opened up/replaced. I'm very familiar with that generator and have one in my collection. There isn't much to go wrong. I'm betting on a short inside the panel behind the outlets.

John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN What do you call 4 Blondes in an Abrams? Brian Ramsey 1/6/2007, 9:43 น. Thank you for your reply. I have not checked the voltage behind the breaker yet. I will do this when I get off of work.

Also the history of the generator, it has maybe 15 hours on it. I replaced the brushes and the power regulator last year do to 'no power on the panel' and this is what B&S said to do. It did work after the repair. Now this year I run it and the breaker trip's it is the far left breaker there is no load on the unit when the breaker trips. I forgot to say I replaced the breaker also after this problem started. 'I'm betting on a short inside the panel behind the outlets.'

You mean a bad outlet? On Jun 1, 1:51 am, Neon John wrote: You gotta tell us a whole lot more than that. Is the breaker tripping with a load attached or without? What does the voltage measure on the generator side of the breaker? What is the history of the generator? Many times such problems are the inadvertent result of mistakes made during previous repairs so I need to know what was done to the generator last.

In some detail. What you took off/opened up/replaced. I'm very familiar with that generator and have one in my collection.

There isn't much to go wrong. I'm betting on a short inside the panel behind the outlets. John On Fri, 01 Jun 2007 05:29:59 -0000, Brian Ramsey wrote: I hope this is the right group I am getting my generator ready for hurricane season. I fired it up and by breaker keeps tripping after warmup. I checked all wires everything seems to be fine.

I replaces the brushes, power regulator last year. Any ideas will be appreciated. - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN What do you call 4 Blondes in an Abrams? Neon John 1/6/2007, 14:37 น.

On Fri, 01 Jun 2007 16:43:26 -0000, Brian Ramsey wrote: Thank you for your reply. I have not checked the voltage behind the breaker yet. I will do this when I get off of work. Also the history of the generator, it has maybe 15 hours on it. I replaced the brushes and the power regulator last year do to 'no power on the panel' and this is what B&S said to do.

It did work after the repair. now this year I run it and the breaker trip's it is the far left breaker there is no load on the unit when the breaker trips. I forgot to say I replaced the breaker also after this problem started. 'I'm betting on a short inside the panel behind the outlets.' You mean a bad outlet?

Could be a bad outlet or more likely, a pinched wire, skinned insulation or maybe something touching one of the hot screws. John On Jun 1, 1:51 am, Neon John wrote: You gotta tell us a whole lot more than that.

Generac 7000exl Engine Owners Manual

Is the breaker tripping with a load attached or without? What does the voltage measure on the generator side of the breaker?

What is the history of the generator? Many times such problems are the inadvertent result of mistakes made during previous repairs so I need to know what was done to the generator last. In some detail. What you took off/opened up/replaced. I'm very familiar with that generator and have one in my collection. There isn't much to go wrong.

I'm betting on a short inside the panel behind the outlets. John On Fri, 01 Jun 2007 05:29:59 -0000, Brian Ramsey wrote: I hope this is the right group I am getting my generator ready for hurricane season. I fired it up and by breaker keeps tripping after warmup. I checked all wires everything seems to be fine. I replaces the brushes, power regulator last year.

Any ideas will be appreciated. - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN What do you call 4 Blondes in an Abrams? - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN Nuke the Whales! Philkryder 2/6/2007, 0:38 น. On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 07:38:00 -0000, philkryder wrote: John - Are those the small round thermal breakers as are found on the 8000exl?

Yeah, pretty disgusting, ain't they? The reason that I ask is that we had problems with the breakers and ended up replacing them with a 240 volt double pole breaker switch on our 8000EXL.

The 240 volt double pole breaker was a standard Briggs part, but we had to mill an opening for it in the control panel cover. Phil I've done something similar on all my other generators but I haven't gotten a round tuit yet with this one.

It's a backup for my homemade diesel generator so I haven't paid it much attention. I did use it for about 1000 hours to run a concession stand. AT about that time it sunk one end of both pushrods. The steel insert in the aluminum rod simply pushed its way into the soft aluminum. I was fortunate to get all the pieces out without having to disassemble the engine. I bought new rods but before I use it much again I think I'll make new ones out of thin wall 4130 tubing.

John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN Democracy is three wolves and one sheep voting on what to have for supper. Neon John 2/6/2007, 12:03 น. On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 10:39:21 -0700, Brian Ramsey wrote: I checked all the wires for skins, pinched etc, and have not found none, I will see what the power is behind the breaker, can you please tell me how to check a 30amp 120 locking outlet? Brian If memory serves, that's a 16L-30 twistlock outlet. Google for that and the first hit or two will show the pin-out. It's a 120/240 outlet.

The slot with the notch is ground and I believe the opposite slot is neutral but check a diagram to be sure. I'd probe between the side (hot) slots and ground with an ohmmeter. There'll be a couple of ohms representing the generator winding but it should not be a dead short. Disconnect the rest of the circuit from the output side of the breaker, make sure the breaker doesn't still trip from some internal defect, and then connect one sub-circuit at a time. If you have an amp-clamp then you can clamp each wire inside the control box to see where the current is flowing.

John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN Give Blood. 8 Billion Mosquitoes can't be wrong. Steve Spence 2/6/2007, 12:14 น. On Jun 2, 11:59 am, Neon John wrote: On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 07:38:00 -0000, philkryder wrote: John - Are those the small round thermal breakers as are found on the 8000exl?

Yeah, pretty disgusting, ain't they? The reason that I ask is that we had problems with the breakers and ended up replacing them with a 240 volt double pole breaker switch on our 8000EXL. The 240 volt double pole breaker was a standard Briggs part, but we had to mill an opening for it in the control panel cover. Phil I've done something similar on all my other generators but I haven't gotten a round tuit yet with this one. It's a backup for my homemade diesel generator so I haven't paid it much attention.

I did use it for about 1000 hours to run a concession stand. AT about that time it sunk one end of both pushrods. The steel insert in the aluminum rod simply pushed its way into the soft aluminum. I was fortunate to get all the pieces out without having to disassemble the engine. I bought new rods but before I use it much again I think I'll make new ones out of thin wall 4130 tubing. John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN Democracy is three wolves and one sheep voting on what to have for supper.

John - As I understand it, the aluminum push rod is for exhaust only. The aluminum push rod is used to try to keep exhaust valve clearance tight when hot by matching the coefficient of thermal expansion of the aluminum block.

4130 won't expand as much. Philkryder 2/6/2007, 14:52 น. Is this the wiring diagram below the one for your model?

Note the wire colors carefully. Do they match your setup? Note that the 'OUTLET TAB MUST BE BROKEN OFF' on the dual 120 volt outlet.

It is a Generac 7000EXL. It has the 120 volt 3 blade locking outlet. I'm guessing that this is your model.

If you can, you might consider using the 120/240 volt 4 blade outlet. Briggs/Generac has a nice cable that plugs into that outlet and gives you multiple 120 volt plugs. The 120/240 volt outlet is protected by the double pole breaker, which worked better for us.

Here is the IPL. Brian Ramsey 3/6/2007, 14:46 น. On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 14:46:19 -0700, Brian Ramsey wrote: I am getting 175 volts behind the breaker. It should be 120 volts right? That's from a hot leg to neutral or hot to hot. Hot leg to neutral should be 120. Hot to hot should be 240.

Way high for hot-neutral, way low for hot-hot. If it's hot to neutral, check the OTHER hot leg to neutral. If it's also high then I'd be looking at the voltage regulator. If it's low then there is probably a ground in one stator winding.

That would change the neutral point from midway between the hot legs like it should be to something else. The windings between the neutral and the short and also likely short circuited which would cause overheating, though I'm not sure how it would cause a breaker to trip without a load. Unfortunately they don't make a full service manual available online like the old Generac company (Generac-portable is now black and decker) does for their RV generators. I can't recall off the top of my head what the voltage regulator input and outputs should be but I believe that the input is 120vac and the output is about 24 volts with no load.

The wiring diagrams for the EXL and my QuietPack 55G are almost identical. The service manual IS available for that model. It contains some good diagnostic procedures such as disconnecting the voltage regulator, applying 12 volts and measuring the output which should be around 60 volts leg to neutral. Did you ever figure out which particular model you have and select the service manual from the Generac site? Having the schematic in front of us would be very helpful.

Is this the right model? Hmmm, one of my odd habits - of taking anything new apart and photographing it - may pay off here. The 7000EXL regulator looks (almost) identical to the one in my QuietPack. Assuming for a moment that it is, check the regulator and see if it has a voltage adjustment potentiometer on the regulator.

Look at the QuietPack manual above for details of finding and adjusting it. It may be that the guy who replaced the old regulator didn't bother to adjust the voltage. John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN What do you call a blonde's cranial cavity?

Vacuum chamber? Brian Ramsey 3/6/2007, 16:26 น. On Jun 3, 5:59 pm, Neon John wrote: On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 14:46:19 -0700, Brian Ramsey wrote: I am getting 175 volts behind the breaker. It should be 120 volts right? That's from a hot leg to neutral or hot to hot. Hot leg to neutral should be 120. Hot to hot should be 240.

Way high for hot-neutral, way low for hot-hot. If it's hot to neutral, check the OTHER hot leg to neutral. If it's also high then I'd be looking at the voltage regulator. If it's low then there is probably a ground in one stator winding. That would change the neutral point from midway between the hot legs like it should be to something else.

The windings between the neutral and the short and also likely short circuited which would cause overheating, though I'm not sure how it would cause a breaker to trip without a load. Unfortunately they don't make a full service manual available online like the old Generac company (Generac-portable is now black and decker) does for their RV generators.

I can't recall off the top of my head what the voltage regulator input and outputs should be but I believe that the input is 120vac and the output is about 24 volts with no load. The wiring diagrams for the EXL and my QuietPack 55G are almost identical.

The service manual IS available for that model. It contains some good diagnostic procedures such as disconnecting the voltage regulator, applying 12 volts and measuring the output which should be around 60 volts leg to neutral. Did you ever figure out which particular model you have and select the service manual from the Generac site?

Having the schematic in front of us would be very helpful. Is this the right model? Hmmm, one of my odd habits - of taking anything new apart and photographing it - may pay off here.

The 7000EXL regulator looks (almost) identical to the one in my QuietPack. Assuming for a moment that it is, check the regulator and see if it has a voltage adjustment potentiometer on the regulator. Look at the QuietPack manual above for details of finding and adjusting it.

It may be that the guy who replaced the old regulator didn't bother to adjust the voltage. John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN What do you call a blonde's cranial cavity? Vacuum chamber?

Thanks I will look into the info you provided. The manual for the generator is located here. It is not much help.

Thaks for you willingness to help. Brian philkryder 3/6/2007, 19:25 น. Here is the IPL. Quoted text - - Show quoted text - can you send me the link for the breaker you are talking about? I can not find this.

Brian I 'think' that you already have one on your generator. It is part number 10 in the diagram at: 10 191480AGS BREAKER, Circuit, 30A, 2P BUT, you should find the 'problem' with your high or low voltage as John suggests. It doesn't seem reasonable to change breakers until you have identified voltages and corrected them if needed. Steps we should take: 1) Confirm that you have a Generac and not a Briggs.??

If a Generac, (which I'm assuming it is) then continue, else STOP. 2) Explicitly write down the exact steps leading to the breaker popping. 2a) unplug all attached loads 2b) make sure that the main breaker/switch is OFF. 2c) start engine 2d) warm up engine 2e)??

Does the Left breaker 'pop' at this point?? If yes, then stop.

If NO, then contiue. 2f) Turn the main breaker/switch to ON - this should expose a RED part of the switch.

Does the breaker 'pop' at this point. If yes, then stop. If NO, then contiue. 2h) Check votages: Across each of the 120 outlet and note them.

Then, Hot to Hot on the 240 volt outlet - the one with 4 openings). Do one Hot to Ground on the 240. Repeat for the other Hot outlet on the 240.

Repeat for each of the Hot outlets, but this time check to the NEUTRAL outlet. 3) REPORT BACK. Brian Ramsey 3/6/2007, 20:36 น. Here is the IPL. Text - - Show quoted text - can you send me the link for the breaker you are talking about? I can not find this. Brian I 'think' that you already have one on your generator.

It is part number 10 in the diagram at: Yes it is number 10 in the diagram. 10 191480AGS BREAKER, Circuit, 30A, 2P BUT, you should find the 'problem' with your high or low voltage as John suggests. It doesn't seem reasonable to change breakers until you have identified voltages and corrected them if needed. Yes, I kept the old one as a extra Steps we should take: 1) Confirm that you have a Generac and not a Briggs. If a Generac, (which I'm assuming it is) then continue, else STOP.

Yes, it is a Generac not a B&S 2) Explicitly write down the exact steps leading to the breaker popping. 2a) unplug all attached loads 2b) make sure that the main breaker/switch is OFF.

2c) start engine 2d) warm up engine 2e)?? Does the Left breaker 'pop' at this point?? It seems to pop after 30 Seconds after starting the engine. I have counted time and time again 25 to 30 seconds.

If yes, then stop. If NO, then contiue.

2f) Turn the main breaker/switch to ON - this should expose a RED part of the switch. Does the breaker 'pop' at this point. If yes, then stop.

If NO, then contiue. 2h) Check votages: Across each of the 120 outlet and note them. ThenHot to Hot on the 240 volt outlet - the one with 4 openings). Do one Hot to Ground on the 240. Repeat for the other Hot outlet on the 240.

Repeat for each of the Hot outlets, but this time check to the NEUTRAL outlet. I get no power on any outlet that is what I do not understand I checked the wiring diagram at all the outlets seem to piggyback off of each other and not independent to the breaker. Also if you do not mind answering what does the system control board do? Could this be a problem?

3) REPORT BACK.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Brian Ramsey 3/6/2007, 20:39 น. On Jun 3, 5:59 pm, Neon John wrote: On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 14:46:19 -0700, Brian Ramsey wrote: I am getting 175 volts behind the breaker. It should be 120 volts right? That's from a hot leg to neutral or hot to hot. Hot leg to neutral should be 120.

Hot to hot should be 240. Way high for hot-neutral, way low for hot-hot. If it's hot to neutral, check the OTHER hot leg to neutral. If it's also high then I'd be looking at the voltage regulator.

If it's low then there is probably a ground in one stator winding. That would change the neutral point from midway between the hot legs like it should be to something else.

The windings between the neutral and the short and also likely short circuited which would cause overheating, though I'm not sure how it would cause a breaker to trip without a load. Unfortunately they don't make a full service manual available online like the old Generac company (Generac-portable is now black and decker) does for their RV generators. I can't recall off the top of my head what the voltage regulator input and outputs should be but I believe that the input is 120vac and the output is about 24 volts with no load. The wiring diagrams for the EXL and my QuietPack 55G are almost identical.

The service manual IS available for that model. It contains some good diagnostic procedures such as disconnecting the voltage regulator, applying 12 volts and measuring the output which should be around 60 volts leg to neutral. Did you ever figure out which particular model you have and select the service manual from the Generac site? Having the schematic in front of us would be very helpful.

Is this the right model? Hmmm, one of my odd habits - of taking anything new apart and photographing it - may pay off here. The 7000EXL regulator looks (almost) identical to the one in my QuietPack.

Assuming for a moment that it is, check the regulator and see if it has a voltage adjustment potentiometer on the regulator. Look at the QuietPack manual above for details of finding and adjusting it. It may be that the guy who replaced the old regulator didn't bother to adjust the voltage.

John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN What do you call a blonde's cranial cavity? Vacuum chamber? I do not see any place on the regulator to ajust philkryder 3/6/2007, 22:13 น. On Jun 3, 8:36 pm, Brian Ramsey wrote: On Jun 3, 9:46 pm, philkryder wrote: On Jun 3, 2:50 pm, Brian Ramsey wrote: On Jun 3, 1:08 am, philkryder wrote: On Jun 2, 10:36 am, Brian Ramsey wrote: On Jun 2, 2:38 am, philkryder wrote: On Jun 1, 2:37 pm, Neon John wrote: On Fri, 01 Jun 2007 16:43:26 -0000, Brian Ramsey wrote: Thank you for your reply.

I have not checked the voltage behind the breaker yet. I will do this when I get off of work. Also the history of the generator, it has maybe 15 hours on it. I replaced the brushes and the power regulator last year do to 'no power on the panel' and this is what B&S said to do. It did work after the repair.

now this year I run it and the breaker trip's it is the far left breaker there is no load on the unit when the breaker trips. I forgot to say I replaced the breaker also after this problem started. 'I'm betting on a short inside the panel behind the outlets.' You mean a bad outlet?

Could be a bad outlet or more likely, a pinched wire, skinned insulation or maybe something touching one of the hot screws. John On Jun 1, 1:51 am, Neon John wrote: You gotta tell us a whole lot more than that. Is the breaker tripping with a load attached or without? What does the voltage measure on the generator side of the breaker? What is the history of the generator?

Many times such problems are the inadvertent result of mistakes made during previous repairs so I need to know what was done to the generator last. In some detail. What you took off/opened up/replaced. I'm very familiar with that generator and have one in my collection. There isn't much to go wrong. I'm betting on a short inside the panel behind the outlets. John On Fri, 01 Jun 2007 05:29:59 -0000, Brian Ramsey wrote: I hope this is the right group I am getting my generator ready for hurricane season.

I fired it up and by breaker keeps tripping after warmup. I checked all wires everything seems to be fine. I replaces the brushes, power regulator last year. Any ideas will be appreciated. - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN What do you call 4 Blondes in an Abrams? - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN Nuke the Whales! John - Are those the small round thermal breakers as are found on the 8000exl?

The reason that I ask is that we had problems with the breakers and ended up replacing them with a 240 volt double pole breaker switch on our 8000EXL. The 240 volt double pole breaker was a standard Briggs part, but we had to mill an opening for it in the control panel cover. Phil- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I am not sure if it is the same breaker the part number is 75207ags did you have the same trouble? Breaker trips on warmup? Is this the wiring diagram below the one for your model? Note the wire colors carefully. Do they match your setup?

Note that the 'OUTLET TAB MUST BE BROKEN OFF' on the dual 120 volt outlet. It is a Generac 7000EXL. It has the 120 volt 3 blade locking outlet. I'm guessing that this is your model. If you can, you might consider using the 120/240 volt 4 blade outlet.

Briggs/Generac has a nice cable that plugs into that outlet and gives you multiple 120 volt plugs. The 120/240 volt outlet is protected by the double pole breaker, which worked better for us. Here is the IPL. - Show quoted text - can you send me the link for the breaker you are talking about?

I can not find this. Brian I 'think' that you already have one on your generator. It is part number 10 in the diagram at: Yes it is number 10 in the diagram.

10 191480AGS BREAKER, Circuit, 30A, 2P BUT, you should find the 'problem' with your high or low voltage as John suggests. It doesn't seem reasonable to change breakers until you have identified voltages and corrected them if needed. yes, I kept the old one as a extra Steps we should take: 1) Confirm that you have a Generac and not a Briggs.

If a Generac, (which I'm assuming it is) then continue, else STOP. yes, it is a Generac not a B&S 2) Explicitly write down the exact steps leading to the breaker popping. 2a) unplug all attached loads 2b) make sure that the main breaker/switch is OFF. 2c) start engine 2d) warm up engine 2e)??

Does the Left breaker 'pop' at this point?? it seems to pop after 30 Seconds after starting the engine. I have counted time and time again 25 to 30 seconds.

If yes, then stop. If NO, then contiue. 2f) Turn the main breaker/switch to ON - this should expose a RED part of the switch. Does the breaker 'pop' at this point. If yes, then stop. If NO, then contiue.

2h) Check votages: Across each of the 120 outlet and note them. ThenHot to Hot on the 240 volt outlet - the one with 4 openings). Do one Hot to Ground on the 240. Repeat for the other Hot outlet on the 240. Repeat for each of the Hot outlets, but this time check to the NEUTRAL outlet. I get no power on any outlet that is what I do not understand I checked the wiring diagram at all the outlets seem to piggyback off of each other and not independent to the breaker. also if you do not mind answering what does the system control board do?

Could this be a problem? 3) REPORT BACK.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Just to be sure, you are saying that you start the engine with the MAIN BREAKER OFF. And, yet only ONE of the 120 volt breakers pops?

The left one? Please confirm. Brian Ramsey 3/6/2007, 23:18 น.

Here is the IPL. Please confirm.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - these breakers are the push button type, with the breaker pushed in, it will pop 30 seconds after starting, just the left breaker is popping not the other 3 breakers. The far lft and the one right next to it are 30 amp breakers and the last two are 20 amp breakers. I am running at a loss here. No one in the area will work on the generac products just the B&S ones, I really hate to chunk this unit but by the looks of it, I am going to have to. If I leave the breaker tripped, the other breakers stay pressed it but, no power from the panel. I really like to thank everyone here for there input and willingness to help with this!

Bria n philkryder 4/6/2007, 11:22 น. Here is the IPL. Text - - Show quoted text - I am getting 175 volts behind the breaker. It should be 120 volts right? Brian - If This unit has an IDLE CONTROL SWITCH, BE SURE IT IS TURNED OFF until you understand the problem. The IDLE control switch will reduce RPM under no load, and may have been the cause of your LOW (170 volt reading) from wire 11 to 44.

- (see Part #5) atHide quoted text - - Show quoted text - yes, the idle control switch is off. Philkryder 4/6/2007, 12:04 น. I can't believe I typed that. I was thinking B&S.

As far as I know only the portable line went to B&S. The Generac line of standby generators and the Guardian line of standby generators and RV generators are still with the old company. This isn't authorities. Just the result of my studying both web sites and corporate filings. John On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 02:29:14 -0000, philkryder wrote:. Unfortunately they don't make a full service manual available online like the old Generac company (Generac-portable is now black and decker) does for their RV generators. John - John De Armond John - it seems that the Generac portables are not B&D but rather B&S.

Can you clarify which parts of the company went where? - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN Some people are only alive because it is illegal to kill. Neon John 4/6/2007, 14:33 น. On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 20:36:55 -0700, Brian Ramsey wrote: I get no power on any outlet that is what I do not understand I checked the wiring diagram at all the outlets seem to piggyback off of each other and not independent to the breaker. All the wires are right there in the box so you can physically trace them out.

Have you done the test that I requested where you remove the load side wire from the breaker and see if it still trips? You're going to have to go about this methodically if you're to find the problem. also if you do not mind answering what does the system control board do? Could this be a problem? Please read the diagnostic section of the QuietPack generator that I pointed you to last night. The control circuits are essentially the same. Appear to use mostly the same wire labeling, even.

I suggest you do the 12 volt test detailed in the QuietPack manual. Apply 12 volts from a battery to the field and measure the output voltage. Finding that voltage correct will pretty much clear the generator head itself.

Couple other things. You really need to spend a little more effort writing up what you're doing. It's hard to figure out what you really did with these one sentence replies. Please, pretty please, trim your posts. I lack the patience to scroll though too much quoted text to get to the new nuggets.

John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN If we aren't supposed to eat animals, why are they made with meat? Brian Ramsey 4/6/2007, 15:57 น. On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 18:29:38 -0000, philkryder wrote: In this diagram: The leftmost breaker is the SQUARE Breaker/Switch. Is that the one that is popping? If his is like mine he doesn't have a square breaker. Only 4 push-button breakers lined up in a row like this: The 'illustrated wiring diagram for this unit is not correct. I don' know what unit that is actually for.

The correct diagram is in the 7000EXL User's guide, document 16570efw.pdf on that same page. Look on pages 14 and 15. One is a schematic and the other is a pictorial. Once we get on the same page then we can proceed. There are FOUR pushbutton thermal breakers. The one on the left (right on the pictorial) feeds the hot side of the 30 amp 120 volt 3 terminal twist-lock and one side of the 4 terminal twist lock and it feeds the third breaker which in turn feeds one side of the 20 amp convenience outlet.

The second breaker does essentially the same thing with the other leg of the generator output. All the wiring is right there in the terminal box so it will be trivial to trace out once everyone is looking at the right schematic. John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain to eat vegetables! James Storm 4/6/2007, 18:58 น. In this diagram:.

The leftmost breaker is the SQUARE Breaker/Switch. Is that the one that is popping? If his is like mine he doesn't have a square breaker. Only 4 push-button breakers lined up in a row like this: The 'illustrated wiring diagram for this unit is not correct. I don' know what unit that is actually for. The correct diagram is in the 7000EXL User's guide, document 16570efw.pdf on that same page. Look on pages 14 and 15.

One is a schematic and the other is a pictorial. Once we get on the same page then we can proceed. There are FOUR pushbutton thermal breakers.

The one on the left (right on the pictorial) feeds the hot side of the 30 amp 120 volt 3 terminal twist-lock and one side of the 4 terminal twist lock and it feeds the third breaker which in turn feeds one side of the 20 amp convenience outlet. The second breaker does essentially the same thing with the other leg of the generator output. All the wiring is right there in the terminal box so it will be trivial to trace out once everyone is looking at the right schematic. John I will got through thr troubleshooting steps in the link you send me, also to get a better understanding here is a like to pictures I took of the generator this should give you a little idea of what I see. Thanks, Brian philkryder 4/6/2007, 20:31 น. If his is like mine he doesn't have a square breaker. Only 4 push-button breakers lined up in a row like this: John - when I went to your JPG page, the breakers were cut off and only the outlets were showing.

But, I get the idea. The 'illustrated wiring diagram for this unit is not correct. I don' know what unit that is actually for. The correct diagram is in the 7000EXL User's guide, document 16570efw.pdf on that same page. Look on pages 14 and 15. One is a schematic and the other is a pictorial.

I think it is more a case of not having synchronized revision levels rather than being 'wrong.' The owners manual with the 4 round breakers is either this page (model 1470 rev 6!! ) or this page (Rev 0 - ): Both are earlier than the wiring diagrams (REV 08 18 05): and IPL (Rev C 3/30/2006): The later manuals show the square breaker. I think it would be good to remove each OUTPUT wire from the 30 amp breakers. Then, turn off the idle switch (so that the engine runs at full RPM). Then start the Engine Then check VOLTAGE across the two Hot poles of the 240 volt outlet. We should see 240 volts.

Then check voltage to neutral - should be 120. Philkryder 4/6/2007, 21:25 น. On Jun 4, 8:31 pm, philkryder wrote: If his is like mine he doesn't have a square breaker. Only 4 push-button breakers lined up in a row like this: John - when I went to your JPG page, the breakers were cut off and only the outlets were showing.

But, I get the idea. The 'illustrated wiring diagram for this unit is not correct. I don' know what unit that is actually for. The correct diagram is in the 7000EXL User's guide, document 16570efw.pdf on that same page. Look on pages 14 and 15. One is a schematic and the other is a pictorial. I think it is more a case of not having synchronized revision levels rather than being 'wrong.'

The owners manual with the 4 round breakers is either this page (model 1470 rev 6!! ) or this page (Rev 0 - ): Both are earlier than the wiring diagrams (REV 08 18 05): and IPL (Rev C 3/30/2006). The later manuals show the square breaker. I think it would be good to remove each OUTPUT wire from the 30 amp breakers. Then, turn off the idle switch (so that the engine runs at full RPM). Then start the Engine Then check VOLTAGE across the two Hot poles of the 240 volt outlet.

We should see 240 volts. Then check voltage to neutral - should be 120. I meant to remove them from each of the 20 amp 120 volts, rather than the 30 amp. But, your picture HELPED. Take a look at the Blue and Grey wires as they enter the 120/240 4 prong outlet.

You have the GREY (44A) and BLUE next to each other. Remember that John said earlier that they should be OPPOSITE each other. And that the NEUTRAL and GROUND should be opposite each other. Look at Page 2 of the wiring diagram here: And even better, Look also at the wiring diagrams or page 15 of the owners manual Rotate the PDF 180 degrees so that it matches your picture.

You will see that: In your picture, 44A Gray is at the lower left - the wiring diagram shows NO WIRES be at the lower left - that is the GROUND. It appears that is grounded by connection to the panel. In your picture, 11A Blue is at the upper left, that matches the diagram. In your picture, 22 RED is at the lower right, but the diagram shows that a 44A Grey should be at the lower Right.

I'm hesitant to make suggestions as to what you should do. But, I would consider trying to match the wiring diagram. Phil Brian Ramsey 4/6/2007, 23:25 น.

I meant to remove them from each of the 20 amp 120 volts, rather than the 30 amp. But, your picture HELPED.

Take a look at the Blue and Grey wires as they enter the 120/240 4 prong outlet. You have the GREY (44A) and BLUE next to each other.

Remember that John said earlier that they should be OPPOSITE each other. And that the NEUTRAL and GROUND should be opposite each other. Look at Page 2 of the wiring diagram here: And even betterLook also at the wiring diagrams or page 15 of the owners manual Rotate the PDF 180 degrees so that it matches your picture. You will see that: In your picture, 44A Gray is at the lower left - the wiring diagram shows NO WIRES be at the lower left - that is the GROUND. It appears that is grounded by connection to the panel.

In your picture, 11A Blue is at the upper left, that matches the diagram. In your picture, 22 RED is at the lower right, but the diagram shows that a 44A Grey should be at the lower Right.

I'm hesitant to make suggestions as to what you should do. But, I would consider trying to match the wiring diagram. Phil- Hide quoted text - I seen this over and over again and thought is was a misprint. I moved the wires around 'to the diagram specs' and I will fire it up in the morning. People will get made at me for firing this monster up at 1:30am. If this works, I will send you a bottle of what ever you drink!

Brian Neon John 5/6/2007, 2:09 น. On Tue, 05 Jun 2007 03:07:27 -0000, Brian Ramsey wrote: I will got through thr troubleshooting steps in the link you send me, also to get a better understanding here is a like to pictures I took of the generator OK. As you're doing each one write down each step that you take and the results. Which wires you lift and what you do with them. Doing remote diagnosis, the little details matter. this should give you a little idea of what I see. That's a start, enough to tell me I want to see more but they're sufficiently out of focus that I can't see the detail that I need.

I'd like for you to shoot the end of the generator head again, like the second photo in your gallery. Try to focus on the wiring instead of the end of the shaft. If your camera has any sort of zone focusing (little square in the display that you can put on what you want in-focus) then please use it. I'd like to see another shot up close of the left side of the generator in the area where that little finned rectifier is screwed down and the windings in the upper left quadrant.

Next, take another one of the back of the control panel, making sure the focus is perfect. Then I'd like close-ups of the collection of breakers, and another of the backsides of the three outlets. Try to fill the frames with these details. When you put the photos up, please put them up at high resolution, if not at the res they came out of the camera. It'll take me awhile to download them on this%^&^&.^ dial-up connection but I need the detail to work with.

Couple more questions. Is the back of the red panel beneath all the wiring smoked up or is that just the effect of the photograph? In the first photo that shows the voltage regulator board, what is that stuff at the lower left end of the board, in the corner of the box? Is that just dirt or where water has been or where blue smoke leaked out of the board. Is that the board you changed out? If so, did you make doubly sure that the mounting screws didn't contact any traces on the board?

Were there insulating washers on the screws under the board? A ground to the wrong trace on that board could completely throw off the voltage regulation.

John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN Multitasking: Reading in the bathroom! Brian Ramsey 5/6/2007, 5:35 น. All right guys, we have power throughout the board, it was a wire that was put in the wrong place. Here is the story, Last summer I took the Generator a repair shop around the corner do to no power on the board. He told me I needed a new breaker, brushes and regulator that cost me $311.78 installed, he took me around back to show me it works and it did. I never used it after that. So it looks like he moved a wire around on me to get me to come bck this year.

You people went above and beyond to help me out. And it WORKS!!! So, I am going to donate $350.00 to: i seen this group work here in my area and they are great! I am going to make donate the money in all of you good peoples name.

Thank you and god bless you. Brian Ramsey Neon John 5/6/2007, 10:11 น. On Tue, 05 Jun 2007 05:35:47 -0700, Brian Ramsey wrote: all right guys, we have power throughout the board, it was a wire that was put in the wrong place. Here is the storyLast summer I took the Generator a repair shop around the corner do to no power on the board. He told me I needed a new breaker, brushes and regulator that cost me $311.78 installed, he took me around back to show me it works and it did. I never used it after that.

So it looks like he moved a wire around on me to get me to come bck this year. Ya outta name names so he can be on this international sh.t list. You people went above and beyond to help me out. And it WORKS!!! So, I am going to donate $350.00 to: i seen this group work here in my area and they are great! I am going to make donate the money in all of you good peoples name. Thank you and god bless you.

Outcomes like yours makes all the time I spend on this-here net worthwhile. That organization sound like a genuine Good Thing so I'd be honored to have my name associated with your donation. (lack of) After-service care for GIs is a very sore spot for me so I'm glad to see such an outfit exists.

Hey, do you still have the old regulator? I bet there's nothing wrong with it. I'd like to get my hands on it to see. Also to reverse-engineer to post a schematic to the net so that others can make their own if they choke on the $250-300 these dealers charge for that $5 board. John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN Serenity: That feeling of knowing that your secretary will never tell either of your wives. Brian Ramsey 5/6/2007, 10:24 น. all right guys, we have power throughout the board, it was a wire that was put in the wrong place.

Here is the storyLast summer I took the Generator a repair shop around the corner do to no power on the board. He told me I needed a new breaker, brushes and regulator that cost me $311.78 installed, he took me around back to show me it works and it did. I never used it after that. So it looks like he moved a wire around on me to get me to come bck this year. That SOB. Ya outta name names so he can be on this international sh.t list.

I called his number, he is no longer around. You people went above and beyond to help me out.

And it WORKS!!! So, I am going to donate $350.00 to: i seen this group work here in my area and they are great! I am going to make donate the money in all of you good peoples name. Thank you and god bless you. Thanks much. Outcomes like yours makes all the time I spend on this-here net worthwhile. That organization sound like a genuine Good Thing so I'd be honored to have my name associated with your donation.

(lack of) After-service care for GIs is a very sore spot for me so I'm glad to see such an outfit exists. I agree, I try to help as much as I can.

It is a very good organization. Hey, do you still have the old regulator? I bet there's nothing wrong with it.

I'd like to get my hands on it to see. Also to reverse-engineer to post a schematic to the net so that others can make their own if they choke on the $250-300 these dealers charge for that $5 board. Send me a email to with your address, I will send it to you.

I still have it. John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN Serenity: That feeling of knowing that your secretary will never tell either of your wives. Brian Ramsey 5/6/2007, 10:27 น. On Tue, 05 Jun 2007 17:24:35 -0000, Brian Ramsey wrote: Hey, do you still have the old regulator? I bet there's nothing wrong with it.

I'd like to get my hands on it to see. Also to reverse-engineer to post a schematic to the net so that others can make their own if they choke on the $250-300 these dealers charge for that $5 board. send me a email to with your address, I will send it to you.

I still have it. Just sent the email. Before we close this thread, which wire was in the wrong place? John - John De Armond See my website for my current email address Cleveland, Occupied TN Serenity: That feeling of knowing that your secretary will never tell either of your wives.

Unk.@googlegroups.com 5/6/2007, 17:17 น. Philkryder 5/6/2007, 20:07 น. Brian - I'm glad it's working for you. Thanks for the fun - it was just difficult enough to be interesting, but I learned some things from John stepping through the daisies.

It reminded me of a joke in my former line of work - mainframe system programming. We had a fake computer assembler language instruction that we called 'SRM' - Set Right Manual - It really does make a difference to match the docs to reality. Further, I appreciate the donation and your commitment to our troops. Much better than anything I could drink.

I would suggest that you download and retain the relevant PDFs. Things at these companies sometimes 'disappear' as ownership changes. Phil philkryder 5/6/2007, 20:13 น. On Jun 5, 5:35 am, Brian Ramsey wrote: Brian - Two other things: 1) BE VERY SURE, to USE a suitable ground. I believe that there is a ground lug on the generator head. Make sure that you have a good high quality ground and appropriate wire. You might want to check on local code as to whether it should be a common ground with your home.

You might also want to research the concept of a ground bonded neutral. 2) I hope your weather is so good you never have to use the generator. Often, just being prepared is its own reward. Best Phil Brian Ramsey 8/6/2007, 21:23 น. Thanks for the fun - it was just difficult enough to be interestingbut I learned some things from John stepping through the daisies. It reminded me of a joke in my former line of work - mainframe system programming.

We had a fake computer assembler language instruction that we called 'SRM' - Set Right Manual - It really does make a difference to match the docs to reality. FurtherI appreciate the donation and your commitment to our troops.

Much better than anything I could drink. I would suggest that you download and retain the relevant PDFs. Things at these companies sometimes 'disappear' as ownership changes. Phil- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - y I downloaded the the pdf,s and again thank you for your help! Brian Brian Ramsey 8/6/2007, 21:26 น. Brian - Two other things: 1) BE VERY SURE, to USE a suitable ground.

I believe that there is a ground lug on the generator head. Make sure that you have a good high quality ground and appropriate wire. You might want to check on local code as to whether it should be a common ground with your home. You might also want to research the concept of a ground bonded neutral. 2) I hope your weather is so good you never have to use the generator. Often, just being prepared is its own reward.

Best Phil- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thank you for the advice, I will check into that. Can I ground it on my ground on the side of my house? Also, I was late sending the regulators to you they went out today. Brian philkryder 8/6/2007, 23:19 น.