Ef3000ise Service Manual
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Generator OWNER'S MANUAL EF3000iSE EF3000iSEB LIT-19626-01-20 7CH-28199-10 AE00002 INTRODUCTION Congratulations on your purchase of your.
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Welcome to the The Garage Journal Board forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features.
By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please,! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact. Pretty much BlkHawk summed it up. Additives won't help you. Pull the carb and get the wire ready for a manual cleaning. If the engines starts and runs, even surging, you frequently can get it to 'clean itself'.
Mix up about 1 gallon of gasoline and Seafoam at about 4 times the normal ratio. Drain existing gasoline and fill with the new gasoline. Start and run it on a 'heavy' load. A couple of cheap electric heaters (Walmart under $20) are a good load. Turn the load off for about 1-3 minutes every 10-15 minutes.
Run the whole tank. If this doesn't clear it, THEN you need to pull the carb. Disassemble and soak overnight in a bucket of ChemDip. (Available at most auto parts store for about $20. Keep it sealed and it will last a lifetime.) You will probably need some new gaskets, but not the needle and seat. Our Community well has a Genrac/Dayton 10K watt for running the pump in an emergency. It has a load sensor and idle mode.
When it senses any draw, an electric motor brings the throttle to full and the governor takes over to maintain RPM. In idle mode, it is on the idle stop screw. I recently got ours and went over it, changing the oil and filter and draining the fuel tank of old fuel and replacing the fuel hoses. It would not idle smooth at all in idle mode and did semi OK in the full power mode. I ended up removing the cover to the carb and pulling the float and it had a lot of grit in the float bowl.
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Carefully blew out the passages in the body and cover, making sure no loose ball bearings, needles, etc got lost, and reassembled it and held down the float shaft retainer and allowed it to fill. Floats shut off when flush with the top of the body, so I reinstalled the carb top and it ran fine after that. Other problem I have run into in the past. There is an oil pressure switch that kills the engine if there is no oil pressure. Usually there is a time delay of about 30 secs so the engine can start, then the pressure switch is put into the circuit.
If you have a bad or near bad switch, it may be make/break/make at idle due to low oil pressure and causing the ignition to cut in and out. On ours, the switch was totally bad, and the motor would start and run 30 secs and die.
Finally figured out the switch and time delay, and replaced the switch and fixed it. Whenever I hear a description of surging, I immediately go to the carb being dirty. Especially the 'low' side of a motor.
I've seen precisely what you describe on the eco mode side of my Honda generators. Running them with a load will usually clean them out.especially if you have a stabilizer or cleaner (sea foam) in the fuel. Having had this issue, and having taken my carbs apart to clean them, I've since not let my gens have any fuel go through the, that isn't treated. And since then I've had no trouble (4+ years). I have run multiple tanks with a heavy seafoam content with it under load to varying degrees. Left it sit for hours and days with strong solutions in it.
I just was looking for other potential issues before tearing it apart. I do generally try to start it and run it often but sometimes life gets too hectic and it sits. I think it got left in the camper over the winter then not used until fall so it likely got a little something in it. The surging is the engine. It does it under no load.
I put a 750/1500 watt heater on it and it bumps up perfect to match the load. Would not be so bad but when we use it to run the AC on the camper it is terribly annoying when the compressor kicks out.
Ef3000iseb Service Manual Torrent
I ran it in the box of the pickup all summer when driving to run the AC and hoping to 'self clean' but no luck. I will have to crack it open. I have run multiple tanks with a heavy seafoam content with it under load to varying degrees. Left it sit for hours and days with strong solutions in it. I just was looking for other potential issues before tearing it apart.
I do generally try to start it and run it often but sometimes life gets too hectic and it sits. I think it got left in the camper over the winter then not used until fall so it likely got a little something in it. The surging is the engine. It does it under no load. I put a 750/1500 watt heater on it and it bumps up perfect to match the load. Would not be so bad but when we use it to run the AC on the camper it is terribly annoying when the compressor kicks out.
I ran it in the box of the pickup all summer when driving to run the AC and hoping to 'self clean' but no luck. I will have to crack it open. You can always try a stronger, carb specific additive and give it one last chance, but otherwise, yes, it sounds like a good carb cleaning is in order. Going forward try to use SeaFoam preventatively and drain the carbs when the gen-set is being stored. So just a follow up on this in case anyone finds it in a search.
The inside of the carb was spotless. The idle jet is accessible from the outside on top if you remove the electric throttle control. It was plugged solid. Spray carb cleaner etc wouldn't clear it but 5 minutes in 'real' carb cleaner had it cleared. Back to running like a top. You can download the service manual in PDF on the net and the parts breakdown is on 3-45. Item 18, pilot jet.
'Mikuni Pilot Jet B-Type Butterfly Carb N101.043/37.5' is the part if you want to get one in advance. I found them for a couple buck on flea bay so I have spares in the camper. I ordered 3 spares.
Two to drop in the mud and one to use. So just a follow up on this in case anyone finds it in a search.
The inside of the carb was spotless. The idle jet is accessible from the outside on top if you remove the electric throttle control. It was plugged solid.
Spray carb cleaner etc wouldn't clear it but 5 minutes in 'real' carb cleaner had it cleared. Back to running like a top. You can download the service manual in PDF on the net and the parts breakdown is on 3-45. Item 18, pilot jet. 'Mikuni Pilot Jet B-Type Butterfly Carb N101.043/37.5' is the part if you want to get one in advance. I found them for a couple buck on flea bay so I have spares in the camper. I ordered 3 spares.
Two to drop in the mud and one to use. Thank you for coming back to the thread. All too often, people will get the help they need and never respond with the results obtained. Reply-backs like this are valuable to others. So just a follow up on this in case anyone finds it in a search. The inside of the carb was spotless.
The idle jet is accessible from the outside on top if you remove the electric throttle control. It was plugged solid. Spray carb cleaner etc wouldn't clear it but 5 minutes in 'real' carb cleaner had it cleared.
Back to running like a top. You can download the service manual in PDF on the net and the parts breakdown is on 3-45. Item 18, pilot jet.
'Mikuni Pilot Jet B-Type Butterfly Carb N101.043/37.5' is the part if you want to get one in advance. I found them for a couple buck on flea bay so I have spares in the camper. I ordered 3 spares. Two to drop in the mud and one to use. Yep-thanks for coming back with this-I have the smaller cousin of your 3000 (an EF24000isHC) and this is handy info!